Designing PCBs With Castellated Holes | Voltlog #335

Welcome to a new Voltlog, in today’s video we’re going to be talking about castellated holes and how you can create them in your CAD tool. If this term is new to you, it’s pretty simple, you’ve certainly come across them if you’ve ever played with a bluetooth or wifi module because those 99% of the time will use castellated holes, which are these semi-plated holes on the edges of a PCB.  Having these connection points allows these modules to be soldered on top of a main PCB which contains our main circuit.

You might ask yourself why do we use castellated holes, why not use a simple through hole header as a board interconnect or just some simple SMD pads. Well in my opinion the most important reason is the relatively low difficulty for soldering castellated holes. If you think about it, having some SMD pads that go on the bottom of the PCB makes it pretty hard to solder, at least without proper equipment, you need to deposit solder paste on those pads, you need to get it in the right amount and then you need to have perfect alignment of the module on top of the pads which reside on the main PCB. Having these connection points underneath our module makes it very hard to align because you can’t see them. Also debugging such a module is going to be a pain because you won’t have access to all of those connection points.

So this where castellated holes improve, by having the plated half-holes at the side you can solder them even with a simple soldering iron, alignment is pretty easy because you can clearly see the connection points and debugging these is much easier because once again you can access them, you can do measurements with your scope probes or whatever instrument you are using.

Another advantage of having castellated holes on a design is to think of it like a building block, you might improve this building block externally or switch to a new building block that uses the same pinout and you just drop it into your system as a simple upgrade.

And believe it or not but having a module with castellated holes can lower your BOM cost in some cases because let’s say you need to use an RF module which might be 4 layers or a complicated system on module that may be 6 or 8 layer PCB with a powerful processor. Instead of building your entire system on an 8 layer PCB and assembling that complicated BGA chip yourself, you can buy the module ready made, it has castellated holes and you just drop that module into your system which may be a 2 layer mainboard or 4 layer mainboard that costs less.

Designing A C5W Cree LED Bulb With Constant Current Driver | Voltlog #333

In a previous video I showed how I designed and assembled my own T10 style LED bulbs for the purpose of installing them in my car for the interior lighting. I was sick of these cheap bulbs I was getting from Aliexpress which didn’t last very long due to poor thermal performance and also they had this nasty blue tint color for the LEDs. The video I’m talking about is Voltlog #319, those bulbs have been installed in my car for the past couple of months, they are great. I love them and I’m pretty sure I will never have to replace those again.

Unfortunately T10 is not the only style of bulb that my VW uses on the interior lights, it also uses this style of bulb which is called C5W festoon for the lights on the sunvisor area. This comes in a few different lengths, I need mine to be 37.5 mm. So you can probably guess what I did next, I took the circuit I used previously and adapted the layout to fit the C5W outline.

Testing Kafuter Adhesives For Electronics | Voltlog #331

Welcome to a new Voltlog, in this video we’ll take a closer look at the various adhesive products that I could find and order on Aliexpress from this brand which has a hard to pronounce name, I would call this Kafuter but I don’t know, doesn’t sound right.

Since we deal with electronics on this channel, I’m particularly interested in how these adhesives would cope with use on electronics. As you may know in a typical product you may find different types of adhesives used: you might have some for securing wires/connectors, you might have a different type of glue used for securing big capacitors to stop them from flapping in the breeze, a different type of product for creating a seal against moisture, a different glue for securing trim pots in their final position.

And all of these products need to do their specific job while at the same time ensuring that they do not break down or become corrosive or conductive over time. I’m not gonna be able to give you any guarantees to that as my testing methods are not exactly industry standard so I’ll mostly be giving you like an overview of these cheap products that we can find on aliexpress and I will mainly recommend them for hobby use but if you have any experience with this company or it’s products, please do share in the comments below.

PCB Solder Trainer | Voltlog #328

Welcome to a new Voltlog, the title probably gave it away already, this video is about a pcb solder trainer that I designed to measure ones soldering skills. This is not a new idea they have been around for a long time and there have been different designs around but you can join me in this video to see how I designed mine. 

I remember how soldering felt back when I was just starting tinkering with electronics, I think I was about 7-8 years old and I had this big communist soldering iron that I got from my father, this was about 100W rated, it had a small flashlight incandescent bulb and it used this thick copper wire as the soldering tip. It was great for soldering big stuff due to the power rating and the ability to transfer that heat efficiently. I remember I was using too much solder, I was making these huge solder blobs.

So back to the board design, let’s take a closer look at what I have in here. On the left we start with 01005 passives, these are 5 resistors in series and at the end of the string there is an LED. The LED has to be bigger because you can’t get them that small so the LED starts at 0402, imperial size. If you get all 5 resistors and the LED soldered right and you apply 5V to this header, the LED should light up and that’s your indication that you’ve at least electrically got everything connected right.

And the size of the components then goes up to 0204, 0402, 0603, 0805, 1203 then we have some resistor networks which I believe are 4×0603. Then we have some SOT23 devices these can be dual diodes also connected in series that will light up an LED.

Depending on the type of LED you choose and it’s forward voltage you can calculate what resistor values you need so the LED will light-up. In general a green LED with 47ohms resistor should work for this and the pads for each of these passive components are the hand solder type which makes them wider so that’s something to help you out.

Making Kelvin Test Leads For My LCR Meter | Voltlog #326

A common mistake when building kelvin 4 wire test leads is to use standard alligator clips because in a standard clip the top and bottom jaw are electrically connected at the hinge point. This kinda defeats the purpose of having separate sense lines if they are getting shorted at some point with the current carrying trace. For a true kelvin connection you would need a special type of alligator clip, like the ones shown in this video, these have a plastic hinge and the top and bottom jaws are not electrically connected. These can be quite expensive if they are made by a good manufacturer but I got mine from aliexpress for cheap, they do not excel in quality but good enough for the type of instruments I am going to be using them with and with the amount of work volume they are going to see on my bench they will last a while.

Gopher NPS1601 Open Source Control Panel | Voltlog #322

A while ago I decided to start this project of re-designing the front panel for this power supply to give it more functionality, make it an awesome power supply cause as it is, it’s a good power supply but I think we can make it an awesome power supply. I made an announcement on the channel a while ago so several people joined the project, this is a team effort and right now it’s time to show you the first hardware prototypes and to discuss the choices we’ve made in terms of hardware. 

3D Printer Monitoring With An ESP32 Smartwatch And Octoprint API | Voltlog #320

Welcome to a new Voltlog, in this video I’m gonna show you how I built this project where an ESP32 based smart wristband allows me to track the progress of my 3D printer in real time. So I thought about how I could solve this problem and I came up with a project where I’m using a LILYGO T-Wristband which is basically an ESP32 development platform built into this smart bracelet form factor. The bracelet connects via Wifi to the local network where Octoprint runs and manages the 3d printer.

Designing A T10 LED Bulb With Constant Current Driver | Voltlog #319

Welcome to a new Voltlog, in this video I’m gonna walk you through the design process of this small but important piece of circuit which is a T10 LED based lamp. We’ll go through why I need a T10 LED lamp, why I made the various design choices and in the end we will test the resulting PCB to see if it functions according to our specs.

So I started thinking about designing my own T10 LED bulb. First I picked some high quality Cree LEDs that would fit the purpose. These have a forward voltage of 3V, they have a high CRI of over 95 and I can pick from a variety of output colors, after a bit of experimenting, I ended up going with 4000K which is this nice neutral white.

Next I had to figure out how to drive these at constant current and really here I needed to decide between a switch mode drive and a linear driver. A switch mode driver would be more efficient, generating less heat but it will need more parts, which would increase the cost and complexity so in the end I went with a linear driver, which is the AL5809, this is a nice two terminal device, it comes in a variety of current presets and you just place it in series with your LEDs.

There is one constraint though, it needs 2.5V over the LED string voltage to operate correctly. That means that with our 3V rated LEDs, we can place two of those in series, plus the driver, which raises the min voltage to 8.5V. It might be possible to add a third led on board to bring it up to 11.5V and it would still work in the car but installing that 3rd led would be difficult so I decided to stick to just 2 LEDs.

CH341A Programmer 3.3V Fix | Voltlog #318

Welcome to a new Voltlog, if you watched the previous mailbag video I showed getting this CH341 programmer tool for EEPROMS and FLASH chips and my viewers were quick to point out this actually has a design problem regarding the voltage levels it puts out. So it appears there is a 3.3V regulator on board for providing power to the eeprom or flash chip via the zif socket but the CH341 itself is running at 5V which means it outputs 5V signals on the SPI bus.

Someone has reverse engineered this little board and put together a schematic which clearly shows pin 28 VCC connected to 5V but I want to make sure nothing has changed and this still present. And checking with a multimeter, pin 28 is still connected to 5V USB.

Connecting a 3.3V rated part for programming might result in damaging that part. You might get lucky, you might have a chip that will tolerate that but in general that’s bad practice and so we’re going to attempt to fix it by simply cutting the 5V line going into the CH341 pin 28 and supplying it with 3.3V from the onboard regulator instead. And the datasheet also specifies that V3 pin 9 should be connected to VCC and 3.3V as well.

The Curious Case Of A Very Sensitive PIR Light | Voltlog #315

This is a portable PIR activated LED light, it ships with some double sided adhesive backing and it’s pretty convenient to use around the house or when going camping I quite like it. It works with 4 AAA batteries and personally I use this inside a wardrobe to help me find stuff. If positioned correctly it turns on as soon as I open the wardrobe door. Because I like it so much I decided to order another one to place in a different closet for the same purpose. I don’t know if I ordered from the same seller, probably not, I just went on Aliexpress, did a quick search and ordered another one.

And here it is, after a long wait it finally arrived, at first sight they look identical, apart from a minor difference in the LED output color but that’s to be expected because whatever they can find at the market that particular day right?  But in practice I also noticed something different, the new one is much more sensitive in picking up movement, to the point where it turns on even if it’s behind a closet wall and I walk past by, or even behind a wall. I know it doesn’t make much sense, because these are supposed to be infrared sensors so they can’t pass through walls. But it must be bouncing the IR rays off the walls and it’s so sensitive that it is picking up those reflections, I would have no other explanation for this but if you do, let me know in the comments.